The DollyBirds – the new Maitre d’s – Not
Time was when the first encounter with a restaurant was with an authority figure, a maitre d’ who would snap his fingers to summon a minion to guide you, the honoured guest, to a table. Today, a restaurant gatekeeper is more likely to be a young woman. I’m not convinced they represent progress. I call them the Dolly Birds, gatekeepers who are long on looks but short on experience, sometimes even alertness.
The Dolly Birds are the ineradicable first impression of a resto and not for the good – as I found out this week when I went back to re-review two estimable restaurants on the Harbord Strip, The Harbord Room and Splendido.
I called The Harbord Room to reserve and got a message back that the restaurant was full but the patio took walk-ins. I arrive early to make sure of a table. Oh, dear says the charming DB. A cocktail party is occupying the patio til 8.30. But we can have a table inside but we must be gone by 8.30. Fine, we say, presumably we can then move to the patio.
She agrees.
We’re seated near the windows which have been folded out over the street with the sun washing the terra cotta walls. The Harbord Room, about thirty seats, has a chic cachet, it attracts thirty-something fashionistas with tossed blonde hair and signature sports shirts. . We feel so au courant, MIA is singing, shame we can’t see the banned video say my scenester companions.Instead we nibble Madawaska raw sheep’s cheese with olives and Niagara prosciutto $10 and quaff a modest red Rhone and marvel at the transparent toasts.
Corey Vitiello’s cooking is still inspired but the menu is now leaning toward shorter takes. We dive into a tasty spin on Susur Lee’s Singapore Slaw – a tower of watercress, ginger, daikon, soy beans, caramelized shallot with crisp shards of potato in soy vinaigrette, little discs of rare and marinated white tuna $11. An airy soft shell crab $18 adorns a Pad Thai, delicious because it isn’t sweet.
8.30 approaches. Are we to be turfed out? Or move to the patio? In which case hold the the grilled provimi rack of veal $31 spread with foie gras and sweet bread butter and a red wine glaze. “What is this about the patio?” asks our waiter – It’s not yet free. We relax, lapping up the rich jus that moistens rather dry meat. One of us orders risotto $18. An overcrowded slurry swims on the plate, cooked rice including wild leeks and fresh sheep cheese.
It’s now after nine. Still no patio. We wonder what it says about the restaurant that the patio is closed to the public on a popular Friday night. We cure our disappointment with the cooked-to-order doughnut spills out lime curd, coconut tapioca and tropical fruits. $7. Good but no cigar.
**The Harbord Room 89 Harbord Street 416 962 8989. Dinner for two plus tax: $95
Oh no, it’s happened again. I leave a message at Splendido, reserving for tonight. But when I arrive the lissome DB gives me the onceover, scans the list and shakes her head. She doesn’t apologize for what I think, no I know is the restaurant’s error – but says they’ve had a cancellation so I can have a table. When my companion arrives, he is hazed by her!
Carlo Cattallo, the ebullient co-owner is off tonight but the energetic manager Matthew insures prompt service which often seems like autopilot. Why do the first courses arrive before we’ve finished our cocktails and before we’ve ordered wine (fainting at the inflated prices asked for Niagara wines by the glass)? The place is busy, sure, when we look around we see parties of longhaired academics unbuttoning, but why the rush? Couldn’t someone have asked my companion just once if he was enjoying HIS meal?
Last year the chef, Victor Barry was on an upward trajectory. Too bad crisp soft shell crab is overwhelmed by coriander salad. The rabbit with the pappardelle is so bland it must have been raised on marshmallows. Whew! The main courses are fine - the roast sucking pig $34 is sensationally good and for once blood sausage is soft and fluffy, succotash a gritty accompaniment. The lobster is succulently poached $37, even if the accompanying risotto-not is soupy. A comprehensive cheese tray offers $7 mouthfuls of the likes of raw goat cheese Cendre and raw milk Gouda. A dab of lemon, shards of meringue, a topping of rhubarb sorbet is a great ending $11. But the food tonight is scuppered by the service.
Bring Back the Maitre’ d’s
** Splendido 88 Harbord Street (416) 929-7788 Dinner, food for two plus tax: $151
