Here’s one chef who doesn’t want his food lost in a skilful mix of umbrella. Heston Blumenthal is fascinated by the idea of using sounds with food but he says “Generally, ambient music is too intrusive for me to use it in a restaurant. ” Isn’t it enough to puzzle out the flavours of snail porridge without Jay-Z rapping in your ear?
As for a musician’s take on music in restos – Robin Engelman, founder of the percussion group Nexus, writes “Noise is distraction. Keep the public distracted, They’ll think they’re getting there big bucks worth even if they won’t be able to remember anything the next morning.
“This can be seen and heard everywhere; cell phones pressed to ears, boom boxes in cars and on shoulders, sound effects in stadiums, sound systems in restaurants, video game that sound like wars, and symphony conductors who insist on talking to themselves before conducting.
“Keep customer occupied. Make them think something exciting is happening or going to happen. Fill their minds with noise and psychobabble. When the Product hits their palate/ear/eye/nose, they’ll not be able to discriminate; at least that’s the hope. And It sells more wine.”
When Frank opened at the AGO I dined there with Robin. He asked the manager who chose the music mix competing with conversation. “The staff” replied the manager.
The staff? Why weren’t the customers polled about THEIR tastes? I realize the staff are there everyday but since when were their likes and dislikes put ahead of diners?
